When I think about this year’s edition of the Superior 100, the word that comes to mind is time.
Time is such an interesting construct - “time stands still,” “time flies,” “time marches on,” are just a few things we say in reference to the word time. But what does that have to do with this year’s Superior 100? A lot, I think.
Settle in as you come along for the journey.
This was my 10th trip down the Superior Hiking Trail during the Fall Superior Races. My first attempt to run from Gooseberry State Park to Lutsen on the Superior Hiking Trail (SHT) was in 2013. That year I pulled out at mile 85 behind on calories & hallucinating gnomes in trees (we’ve come a long way since that year!) Other than 2016 (I ran the Hallucination 100 that year instead) and 2020 (Covid changed everyone’s plans) I have been on the SHT during the second weekend in September. Last year I pulled out at 62 miles due to an on going injury, and as a result I was highly motivated for my 8th finish this time around.
My mind spins at the fact that I’ve been fortunate enough to have spent more than a decade on the SHT. Time? Where did it go? My gratitude for a strong, durable body, the gem of the north shore & a lifestyle that allows me to spend time on the trails is real & not taken for granted.
Time, as it does, moves us forward, and after a summer of training both in the gym and on the trails, I found myself once again at the Gooseberry State Park visitors center ready to take on 100+ miles of SHT and whatever adventure was in store.
My number one & best crew chief anyone could ask for.
At 8am on Friday, the race kicked off & a pack of 243 runners headed off down the paved trail that runs along Highway 61 headed north 4 miles before connecting with a spur trail that will lead us to the main SHT.
Time. During the early miles of a 100 mile race, you have to remain patient. This is probably the hardest part. You are eager, rested & ready. But there is a lot of trail ahead & any mistakes you make early - going out too fast, neglecting to stay fueled, tripping and falling because you’re distracted can cause much larger issues later in the race. You simply can’t rush time in those early miles.
Early miles with lots of other runners as we make our way towards the first aid station. PC Ambruster Photography.
It’s 8.5 or so miles to the first aid station. I leap frogged positions with other runners around me as we made our way up to the Split Rock River & towards the first aid station. I felt good, and focused on running well within my fitness and staying well fueled. I was trying some new (this was the first season of using it) liquid carbohydrate drink & electrolyte drink. I carried a bladder of water in my pack, with a bottle of high carb & a bottle of electrolytes along with many hundreds of additional calories. I needed to take in 300 calories an hour on average.
I hit the first aid station as predicted & was back on the trail in no time, as I didn’t need to resupply anything yet. Next up was 10.3 miles of more runnable terrain on the way to Beaver Bay. This is another section where you have to remain patient. It’s easy to get excited about seeing crew for the first time. I settled into my pace & found myself leading a line of runners as we all made our way towards Beaver Bay. It was fun to share some conversation & learn about where some of the other folks were from.
Leading the way! So fun to share some conversations as we all headed towards Lutsen! Also the lake was so blue! PC Scott Rokis
Beaver Bay hits at almost 19 miles (18.8) and I swapped my pack with Matt for a new one. Pack swapping makes aid stations much easier, since crew has a chance to fill bottles & bladders before I arrive & then I can just grab & go. I treated myself to a homemade cookie as I passed through the aid station & requested dry socks for the next aid station at Silver Bay a short 4.2 miles further down the trail
An hour and 20 minutes later I arrived in Silver Bay, quickly located my crew, did a sock change (first sit down of the day,) grabbed my fresh pack & was back on the trail. I had connected with my friend, Erika, during the previous section & I was glad when we left the Silver Bay aid station together. It can be a long 10.3 miles to the next aid station at Tettegouche. Crew is not allowed there, although we can have drop bags (drop bags are bags we pack prior to the race & then race officials transport them to the aid stations for us.) Then it’s another 9.3 miles before meeting crew at County Road 6.
The 10.3 miles to Tettegouche are iconic SHT - we climb up to Bean & Bear Lakes, cross Mount Trudee, and enjoy some buffed out single track inside the state park boundaries before running an ATV trail to the aid station. While iconic, they are also tough. It is now mid-day. Where did the time go???? We are more than a marathon in to the race, with lots more ahead. I always look forward to seeing my friends from Performance Running Gym at the Tettegouche aid station. I know they are going to bring the energy and help take care of us if we need it. Erika and I enjoyed some good conversation and I was grateful for the company on this long stretch.
We eventually rolled into Tettegouche, the volunteers there were as wonderful as ever. They helped fill my bottles, brought me bacon & cheese quesadillas & kept my spirits high. When I was ready to leave, I looked around only to find that Erika had already taken off.
I texted Matt that I was leaving to give him a head’s up on my pace. It was 4:53PM. I’d been running for almost 9 hours. This was the first time today, that I was actually running alone. I was ok with it. When you leave the Tettegouche aid station, you have to cross under Hwy 61, take a bridge across the river & then cross under the HWY again before starting the 1 mile hike back up to the main SHT. It’s fun to see all the day hikers around the state park & have a sense of reality. Here’s that time thing again - 9 hours of running when you know that it’s not even a third of what you have left, and these folks are finishing their hikes, probably thinking about dinner. Even after all these years, my head spins at how we can mentally frame things based on what we’re doing.
I munch on the bacon from the quesadilla and make my way up to the main SHT trail. I’m motivated to attempt to make it to County Road 6 (mile 42.6) before dark. However, I’m not yet convinced I can actually do it. I’m going to give it my best effort. Moving with purpose through this section, I mentally slay some ghosts of past races that linger here. Last year the sun dropped quickly in this section, and I was way behind on calories, emotional & not moving well - lots of tears were shed. Another year I got caught without enough light when a deep fog moved in. And then there was the first year, where I had no idea what to expect and I thought the aid station was much closer than it actually was.
I had trained on this section earlier in the summer, so I knew that there were parts that were runnable. If I could manage my energy & mindset I wanted to run those parts. I pushed hard to keep moving, and the body responded. I found myself running well when I could & hiking strong when necessary. Towards the end of the section I finally caught up with Erika & without even meaning to, I passed her & kept running.
The sun setting on Sawmill Dome during the final section before County Road 6. PC Scott Rokis.
I was stoked to drop down to the paved road that leads to the aid station without needing to use my headlamp. I ran in to the aid station & located Matt & Kelly. Kelly was ready to pace me all night & I was excited to be here feeling so good. I sat down briefly (second sit of the day) to change my shirt, adjust layers, and get ready for the night section. Matt had a turkey wrap ready on cue & I tucked that in to a pocket of my pack. Dinner on the trail.
Ready to take on the night! Temps were already dropping, it was going to be a chilly night on the trail.
Kelly & I head off down the trail. I wouldn’t see crew again until mile 77 tomorrow morning. We climb up Section 13 to the most beautiful sunset. I wish I had a photo of this, but I wasn’t interested in pausing for that long. Easy conversation & miles fly by. Soon we arrive at the Finland aid station, which marks 50 miles. I go looking for my drop bag while Kelly goes looking for mashed potatoes and bacon for me. I don’t think they had either, but I’m sure I ate something, collected what I needed from my drop bag & headed down the trail.
This night section from Finland onward, historically can be a drag. It was 10:30pm when we headed out. I was continuing to move efficiently & feel good. I’m so glad to report that the night was uneventful. Other than a little runner “leap frog” with my friend, Kevin, who with his spooky voice creeped up on us later in the Crosby section, these sections rolled by without issue. And we sure had a good laugh with Kevin! I learned a ton of geology from Kelly who always has interesting geological facts to share. The temps dropped and frost was highlighted with our headlamps in the open areas, but we kept moving. Checking of Sonju aid station (mile 58.2), Crosby Manitou Aid station (mile 62.4) and finally arriving into Sugarloaf at mile 72 at 6:00am.
Kelly & I cruising into a new day! Sun is up, lights are off, smiles are on! PC Amrbruster Photography
As we arrived into the Sugarloaf aid station, I asked Kelly what her plan was - her car was parked here, and if she was going to call it a day. She elected to run another section with me to where we would meet Matt at Mile 77.6, Cramer Road aid station. So we rolled on!
Cramer Road is the start of the marathon distance race at 8:00am. I wanted to get through here as quickly as possible to avoid getting caught up in a huge mass of fresh runners heading to Lutsen. When we arrived at Cramer Road, we were met with Matt & my friend, Erin, who decided she would pace me from the next aid station (Temperance mile 84.5) to the finish. I sat down for the 3rd time since the race start to change my socks again & asked Kelly what she wanted to do. More bonus miles for Kelly, as she joined me for another section!
We quickly headed out to get as much trail between us and the marathoners as possible. I was continuing to feel good - or as good as one can feel on day 2 of an event!
It was towards the middle part of this section that the marathoners started to pass. First the fast guys going for a win, and then some quicker middle of the pack folks. It was fun to soak up some of their fresh energy. Here they were starting their day & I’m now 24 hours into mine. Time. Simply fascinating how we can make it what it is.
I arrived at the Temperance aid station at 10:00am. This aid station is always so bright & a new day brought full sun and warmer temps again. I did a quick pack swap again since from here on out I would see crew at each aid station until the end of the race. Kelly retired from her pacing duties (after 42 miles) & Erin jumped in with fresh energy & new stories to share with me to the finish line.
From the Temperance Aid station you make your way down one side of the Temperance river, cross the pedestrian bridge & then up the other side on the way to climb Carlton Peak. This is another section full of day hikers and fresh faces of folks enjoying real life.
Contemplating my life choices as I make my way down the rocks along the Temperance River. PC Armbruster photography.
The climb up Carlton Peak is always tough, but we make our way & soon we are heading towards the Sawbill aid station. This is the second to last aid station on the course. It always feels good to get here. It takes us a few minutes to locate Matt because we’re almost 10 min ahead of my predicted time. I’m motivated to put in a strong effort during these last two sections. At this point, I don’t have the mental fortitude to do the math on whether or not a personal best is possible, but I want to at least be able to say I put forth my best effort, no matter what.
We have approximately 13 miles remaining (at least on paper) and one more aid station before the finish. There has been rumor of a bonus hill before the finish line this year, and I’m not sure what to expect for that. Erin takes the lead as we leave Sawbill in an effort to “pull” me along. I’m tired. My quads are barking at each downhill we come to, but at least I can still climb. Uphills have always been my strength - which is good, because there are at least 4 more big climbs before the finish.
I’m watching my pace, and estimating that if I can run/hike 3 MPH or 20 min miles I will be close to beating my best time from 6 years ago. The miles are clicking off & I’m holding steady at 18-19min pace. Even the miles that “feel slow” are still less than 20 min pace. Time. Such a strange concept.
Moving through the trees in the final sections. PC Scott Rokis.
We hit the Oberg aid station at 1:15pm. I just need enough fuel & fluids to get me 7.5 more miles. We don’t linger at the aid station. I want to wrap this up. But this last section has 2 more big climbs & then the final “bonus” hill at the end. Can I continue to move well enough to pull off a personal best?
I’m still not convinced, but I can control my effort. So I allow Erin to continue to '“pull” me along. By watching her feet, I can simply just work on keeping up with them. Less decisions that I have to make. Just follow her feet. The first big climb, Moose Mountain, feels extra hard. I’m sure that the mile split is going to be a long one - nope. Still under 20 min pace. I’m feeling hopeful. I even pass a guy here. I think he’s doing the 50. My climbing legs still work! Now to push the downhill so I don’t get passed back - good incentive to keep moving. My quads and thighs bark in argument of my pace. Next up Mystery Mountain (not the bonus hill yet, this one is actually called Mystery.) We are within a few miles of the finish line. At one point you can even hear the finish line music & announcers on the breeze. We’re not there yet. I don’t let off my effort. I know I’m close to a personal best time, but my watch is showing more miles than advertised (it’s not uncommon for trail races to be a slightly different distance than printed - course reroutes & differences in GPS devices can show inconsistencies.) I’m already at 103 miles. And we still need the bonus hill. Time keeps on ticking on.
Soon I notice more of the landmarks that my mind identifies as getting closer to the final river crossing & end of the single track trail. As we cross the raging Poplar River, I allow myself to consider that a personal best might happen. However, what’s that bonus hill going to be??
Previous years, we would simply run the main road through Lutsen Resort to the finish line at Caribou Highlands. However some red tape & issues required the race to divert runners back up the ski hill and off the main road.
As we hit the pavement, cones and trail markings point us up the ski hill to our left. We make s short climb & then follow a gravel road around the backside of the lifts and I can see the “bonus” hill ahead. A long, grassy climb awaits before we turn & descend to Caribou Highlands. The climb isn’t an issue, but that descent, down a catwalk which crosses the paved road and into the Caribou Highlands property was rough. I literally had to just tell my quads and thighs to shut up! It would be over soon!
Down the cat walk, around the buildings, and past the pool to the finish line. 104.8 miles. 31 hours 33 minutes - 24 minute personal best from my time in 2018 (which was closer to 102 miles.)
Finish line celebration with pacer Erin on my heels! PC Adventure Wheelers Photography.
As I sit here a week post race, time continues to march on.
I think it’s important that we take time to recognize time and where we’ve been and what we want to still accomplish. However, tomorrow is never guaranteed, so all we have is right now. Maybe those early miles of an ultra have something to teach us all. Stay present, stay patient, and enjoy the journey.
Thank you all for following along.
Thank you to the race director, Rocksteady Running, all the volunteers, my amazing team at Sunrise Fitness who kept the studio going, Kelly & Erin, my amazing pacers & most importantly, thank you to my number one, Matt, as I couldn’t (nor would I want to) take this journey alone.
Until next time.